A Meat Tornado at Ikinari Steak
In the Lawton family, the petite filet doesn’t fall farm from the rib eye. Rick and Michelle Lawton definitely gave us the options of green beans/other non-tater tot sides and even allowed me to rebel and only eat Ramen for an entire year (I don’t blame them for any residual effect it had on my development; it’s hard to argue the opposite from an economical standpoint). Our non-steak option was typically Swordfish – fittingly the most aggressive non-shark fish we could easily/legally get.
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In one’s fledgling adult years (a what age do you stop prefacing “adult” with “fledgling”…), quality steak for dinner isn’t exactly as budget conscious as making scrambled eggs. While going to a top notch restaurant and enjoying all the fineries around an expertly prepared cut of steak is a holy experience, some days all your soul is crying out for is an excellent piece meat, seasoned and cooked to perfection, stripped of the top shelf bourbon and sexy leather encased establishment – just you, the meat, and the moment.
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Ikinari Steak in the East Village is just that. The restaurant is standing only, tips are already included in the price of the steak, and your options are limited to three cuts of beef at whatever weight your heart desires. The chain is a Japanese staple and its appearance in the United States marks a new era for quick, easy and inexpensive steak; quite the evolution from the primal and questionably toxic Taco-Bell cheesy beef gordita crunch.
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Naturally it’s my civic duty to review the standing steak place. Since I physically, mentally and spiritually did not think it was responsible to tackle all the steak by myself, I enlisted a team to conquer this meat tornado with me. Janel Sia and Hiro Sato kindly said Yes to my frantic text, “Can you guys plz help me eat steak” and Dana Kaplan is my brunette life twin and so she additionally tapped in for commentary.
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With bibs on, we valiantly entered the meat arena:
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The filet came in at 11 cents / gram
(for example: 500g [17.6oz] – $55)
The minimum order is 200g (7.1oz) – $22
Filet Mignon is a cut taken from the smaller end of the tenderloin. The tenderloin is the most tender cut of beef, making it the most desirable and expensive. The muscle is non weight bearing, so it contains less connective tissue and is, in turn, more fork-tender. This cut is also lower in fat, making it lower in flavor compared to others.
We decided a filet is not a choice for when you’re in a human garbage disposal state. Rather, it is a meant to be a drawn out moment, savored whilst wearing velvet and listening to smooth jazz. It’s lush, sensual and fine like Drake; timeless, quality work that just makes you feel good.
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The sirloin came in at 8 cents / gram
(for example: 500g [17.6oz] – $40)
The minimum order is 200g (7.1oz) – $16
Sirloin is a cut taken from the Longissimus dorsi muscle, towards the rear-end of the steer in the short loin primal (just behind the ribs). This cut is moderately tender, but still has a bit of chew. Solid marbling and a strong beefy flavor, this cut isn’t as robust as ribeye, but much easier to trim with no large pockets of fat.
For those truly delicate times in life when you are a human vacuum cleaner leading to a bottomless pit of violent hanger, this is what you and your wallet wouldn’t mind SWC (swallowing without chewing). Dana coined this “the Dennis Rodman”, ideal for after good workout when you need a solid hunk of meat.
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The ribeye came in at 9 cents / gram
(for example: 500g (17.6oz) – $45)
The minimum order is 300g (10.6oz) – $27
Ribeye is a cut taken from the rib section, spanning from ribs six through twelve. Highly marbled with large swaths of fat, this cut is quite fatty, not coincidentally where the distinctive flavor of beef comes from. It is one of the richest, beefiest cuts available and many claim it to be the tastiest, quickest cooking piece of beef.
Some days I loathe myself…for a whole host of reasons. This is the kind of steak you need and deserve when you’re having a Britney-Spears-2007 day. Dana dubbed this “the Lebron James”; the type of post-unpleasant-hinge-date #snack you eat in solidarity to renew your soul and general outlook on life.
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THE RICE HAS PIECES OF STEAK IN IT. Glorious chunks of beef are lurking in your very standard white rice and steamed corn.
Y can’t all rice be like this thou.
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Collectively the above came out to $26 a person, and that’s with the tip already included, which is bananas. The steak is phenomenal, a point further exacerbated by the price tag. The next time you feel like enjoying a three course dinner, where every course is steak, all the while dressed in the bare minimum of socially acceptable garb, make your way here and follow up with the nearby B&H Dairy for some after dinner omelets.
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FYI – Ikinari has a Beef Mileage Rewards Program:
Eat 3kg (106oz) of steak to become a Gold member.
Eat 20kg (705oz) of steak to become a Platinum member.
They also track US and World rankings through this account. Right now “RichardtheAZN” is leading the United States with 20160 grams of beef and “Kaijyu” is leading the monthly high with 4721 grams. Dear. Lord.